Experimental Reconstruction of a Garment for Medieval Martial Arts Research

This time, in collaboration with the blog Sprachfenster, we prepared a German outfit from the 15th century. The garment was designed for experimental study: to explore movement during combat, the possibilities and limitations imposed by human biomechanics, and the influence of the cut and materials on motion.

Why a German outfit?

"Sprachfenster" focuses on the so-called Nuremberg Codex (Pol Hausbuch, MS 3227a), which was created between 1389 and 1494 and is currently housed in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nuremberg. Authorship is often attributed to Hans Dobringer or a pseudo-Dobringer. Additionally, the text contains comments expanding on the teachings of Johannes Liechtenauer.

In the codex, alongside instructions for the long sword, sword and buckler, mounted combat, short sword, “staff”, messer, dagger, and wrestling, one can also find alchemical recipes, iron-hardening instructions, magical formulas, astrological texts, medicinal and magical recipes, and other curiosities.

Survey of Iconographic Sources

We began by asking: what type of garment would best match the time and place of the document’s creation? Given its German origin, the garment should be “German,” but considering the extended period over which the codex was produced, it should reflect either the late 14th century or the first half of the 15th century. If the codex dates to around 1389, the garment should work for both the end of the 14th century and the early 15th century.

Key sources that drew our attention included:
► The figure from the so-called “Nuremberg Fountain” (~1380) – a musician seated on a pedestal, wearing a fitted garment: pants and a doublet (?) padded on the chest, fastened with large buttons.
► Altarpiece paintings from Mainz (~1385) – showing the lower cut of the pourpoint and possibly details emphasizing the uniqueness of the executioners of Christ.
► Treatise Ms.Germ.Quart.16 (Gladiatoria), folio 55r (~1435) – depicting a tight, padded doublet with attached hose (the treatise was created in a German context, though currently housed in Poland).
►Early Talhoffer manuscripts (“First Manuscript” 1448; “Koenigsegg Treatise” 1446–1459) – showing fitted doublets and similar garments, but without visible ties; also including hip-length doublets, shorter or hidden hose.

Some sources show trousers with attached hose, while others depict over-trousers worn over doublets, highlighting the male silhouette even with multiple layers. Based on these sources, we asked: what type of garment should we reconstruct? Maciej and I concluded that a trouser-and-doublet ensemble would be best for experimental testing.

Elements of the Full Outfit

Creating a full outfit for testing required more than just the doublet, as people historically did not train in doublets alone. ;) We prepared a complete outfit consisting of several layers:

Underwear: braies and a shirt (camisia), typically made of linen at the time. The shirt was constructed from rectangles and trapezoids, while the braies resembled modern boxer shorts. Hose: made of wool, cut on the bias for flexibility, fully covering the feet, reaching just below the hips. Eyelets were sewn along the edges to attach to the doublet.

Outer uniform: our main focus. In German fashion at the turn of the 14th–15th centuries, many elements appeared across Europe, but some features were uniquely German:
► Rock – equivalent of the French gippon/jopon/jaquet
► Lendner – a short outer garment with fitted sleeves, appearing in civilian and military forms as the waffenrock
► Schappe/joppe – equivalent of the French doublet

These constructions began appearing in the mid-14th century as garments became shorter and more body-fitted, padded jackets often used to attach hose, originally deriving from military wear worn under armor.

The final essential element was headwear, serving both as protection from the elements and as a socially expected accessory. Inspired by depictions of masters such as Fiore dei Liberi, we opted for a hood that could also be worn as a turban or later-style chaperon.

The Doublet

A separate post discusses the construction of the doublet in detail. Here, we focus on how the garment affects two-handed movements with a long weapon.

The doublet originally had attached hose and likely originated in military fashion, worn by knights with evolving armor. Metal bigwants (leg armor) could be attached, and in 15th-century Italian doublets, ribbons appeared on the sleeves for attaching arm defenses. Initially, only French tailors specialized in this kind of garment could produce short padded doublets (pourpoints), typically consisting of four panels. Over time, other tailors also gained the privilege to sew them. In mid-15th-century England, doublets were described as essential foundations for armor: “He shall have no shirt upon him except for a doublet of fustian lined with satin, cut full of holes. The doublet must be strongly built; the points must be set at the break in the arm in the front and back. To lace the gussets of mail must be sewn onto the doublet also at the break in the arm and at the underarm.”

It is important to distinguish between civilian and military doublets, which often looked similar but differed in function and construction. Maciej Talaga noted that the lower part of the doublet should act as a “male corset,” shaping and compressing the hips and waist, consistent with iconography. We ensured that attached hose and any armor would bear their weight on the hips rather than the shoulders. This theory explains both the depiction of male figures in the 14th–15th centuries and suggests a long-term shaping effect, similar to the influence of corsets on women’s bodies in the 18th–19th centuries.

Final Sprachfenster Outfit

In summary, we created a complete ensemble integrating many elements. The doublet served practical purposes – holding hose in place and allowing additional armor attachments on the legs and arms. Its construction was important historically and remains so today. In addition to comfort and a wider range of movement, the doublet accommodated advanced martial artists, while shaping the silhouette at the waist and hips, with tension from hose and armor distributed across the hips.

We defined the primary function of the outfit and chose a design accordingly. The next step will be testing its impact on movement. I hope to return soon with results from this experiment. Meanwhile, learn more about the topic on Sprachfenster HERE.

Summary

This post does not cover a typical HEMA outfit, but it is closely related to our work in historical martial arts. Experimental studies of movement and the limitations imposed by historical clothing may help us better understand the secrets of past masters.

We are currently working on several outfits inspired by historical ensembles intended for HEMA, harnischfechten, SCA, or historical reenactment. If you’re interested, follow our blog and social media. We welcome special projects of all kinds, regardless of complexity. If you’d like to collaborate on testing unusual solutions, contact us – we are happy to share knowledge and create something together.